Press

New York Times

new york times restaurant review
You never know what will be offered at Miss Lucy's on a given day, but you can be sure the flavors and preparation will delight.

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Ulster Magazine

ulster magazine restaurant review
locals lined up for 'Cue's pulled-pork sandwich, homemade-pastrami Reuben, barbecued brisket and inventive desserts...

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Zagat

zagat's guide to restaurants
zagat's ratings

From the market-based menu of “homey, upscale comfort food” to the “nicely balanced wine list” and “easygoing”, “engaging” owners, “nothing disappoints” at this Saugerties Traditional American deemed “a culinary prize” by the “horse-show set”; wooden furniture and antique kitchen gadgets set a mood of “country warmth” (even if it’s more “Manhattan country”), while the “five-dollar children’s menu” places it close to parents’ hearts.

Poughkeepsie Journal

new york times restaurant review
oh, my darlin' was this good!

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By Daniel Mochon
For the Poughkeepsie Journal

On any given day, you never know what you might be having for dinner at Miss Lucy's Kitchen in Saugerties - and that's a good thing. Co-owners Michelle Silver and husband Marc Propper comb local markets, farms and purveyors for comestibles that are in season and at their peak; only after gathering their bounty is the day's menu decided upon.

This fresh, ingredient-driven cuisine keeps things lively and interesting for the restaurant's kitchen team comprised of self-taught chef Joseph Herrmann and Justin Moreno, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. Miss Lucy, as it turns out, is not some fictional character, but Propper and Silver's very real 8-year-old daughter.

Hard work and attention to detail don't seem to faze this couple much - when they took over this circa-1820s building, it was nothing more than a burned-out brick shell. With the help of some loyal friends, the two restored the interior to shades of its antique past, with tin ceilings, blue wainscoting, wide plank wooden floors and panels of stained glass that ornament the verdigris copper storefront.

There's a casual, farmhouse ambience to the place, with old watering cans, cast iron skillets and gingham aprons hanging from the buttercup walls. Long shelves supported a cookbook collection that rivaled my own, with dozens of appealing titles that I eyed hungrily.

Food-friendly wines

A handsome carved wooden bar occupied one side of the dining room, serving up a tempting array of signature cocktails, bottled beers ($3-$4) and four on draught ($4.50) that would have enticed us more if not for the appeal of the highly interesting and food-friendly wine list.

Small, artisanal producers make up the majority of the list, which emphasizes the wine regions that Propper likes best - France's Rhone

Valley, Languedoc and Provence. Prices are reasonable, running $24 to $110 for the 57 varieties in bottle and $6 to $7 for the dozen or so glass pours.

We chose a flute of sparkling Charles de Fere ($6) to ably accompany our tasty Duck Confit Spring Rolls ($7). After being cured, slowly cooked, then marinated for an entire week, duck leg meat was finely shredded and combined with crisp veggies to provide the flavorful filling for these rich yet dainty cylinders. On the side was an Asian slaw of julienned carrot, cabbage, red pepper and scallions, along with a fruity, chile-infused Thai duck sauce.

Miss Lucy's is the kind of restaurant that purchases meat by the side rather than as hermetically sealed portion cuts. This allows for the fabrication of delectable charcuterie items like the Housemade Country Pate ($7). The coarse-grained pork terrine was scented with a lovely blend of aromatic spices, wrapped in Spanish Serrano ham and accompanied with a prune compote that echoed the pate's spice mixture - my only complaint here was the meager portion size.

A glass of Domaine Courtade L'Alycastre '04 ($6) was a deliciously refreshing dry rose that served as a nice aperitif and also worked surprisingly well with this starter.

Marlin, scallops and more

Cooked perfectly to medium, my slab of Herb-Grilled Striped Marlin ($21) was sliced in half to reveal its succulent pink center. Underneath was a disk of crisp roesti potatoes supported on a bed of crunchy asparagus, red pepper and tomato strips, all tossed with a fresh basil pesto. A pool of fruity, sun-dried tomato pesto-infused olive oil served as a sauce, and picked up on the delicious notes of thyme, rosemary and parsley on the fish. Every bite of this was a flavorful adventure.

I'm usually not much of a Chardonnay fan, but I would re-order the crisp, medium-bodied Caves de Lugny Les Charmes '04 ($7) with this dish.

My companion's five plump Pan-Seared Scallops ($22) each had caramel-colored crusts and a terrific sweet sea flavor that played off nicely against the tart and syrupy balsamic reduction. Local shiitake and oyster mushrooms plus a sensual dose of white truffle oil flavored the mound of (slightly mushy) risotto that was draped with blanched and buttered spears of tender asparagus.

With all of this richness, this dish seemed to require a clean, tart, palate-cleansing white wine, and the MartinSancho Verdejo '04 ($7) from Spain was well up to the task.

Homemade desserts

Silver is also the pastry chef here, and her desserts were fabulous. You couldn't ask for a more sublime version of the warm Apple Crisp ($6). Tender, calvados-infused granny smith apples were topped with a flawless buttery oat streusel and accompanied by a creamy blob of homemade cinnamon ice cream.

Swedish Hazelnut Tart ($6) was like a miniature pie; the sweet dough was brushed first with apricot jam then topped with toasted hazelnut frangipane and finished with ribbons of chocolate ganache. The rich, nutty flavors were simply divine with a scoop of candied clementine ice cream - oh, my darlin' was this good!

Our server was easygoing and friendly, but not very attentive or observant. After a sip or two, we realized our second round of wines had been mixed up and delivered to the wrong owners. Forgotten silverware had to be borrowed from an adjoining table after entrees were delivered. Long periods elapsed when our waitress was nowhere to be found. On the up side, the staff pitched in together and worked well as a team.

Even after three courses and a mug of Hot Chocolate with Housemade Marshmallows ($3.25), we felt terrific, no doubt due to the quality of the local, organic and sustainably-farmed produce that Miss Lucy's Kitchen showcases so well.

The Poughkeepsie Journal pays for the meals that are the subjects of restaurant reviews and reviewers do not identify themselves prior to the end of the meal. Daniel Mochon graduated in 2000 with high honors from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. He is the director of wine and cuisine at the Hudson Valley's largest wine and spirits store.

Hudson Valley Magazine

hudson valley magazine restaurant review
This is worth a drive from anywhere in the Valley.

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Hudson Valley Magazine

hudson valley magazine restaurant review
The food tastes as good as it sounds on the menu - each dish refined, yet packed with flavor.

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Hudson Valley Magazine

hudson valley magazine restaurant review
Trusted Sources report that the food's pretty darn tootin' at Miss Lucy's, the down-home eatery that opened on Saugerties' Partition Street in May last year.

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Guide Magazine

hudson valley guide restaurant review
For a wonderful meal inspired by the bounty of the Hudson Valley, try Miss Lucy's Kitchen, located at 90 Partition Street in Saugerties.

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hudson valley magazine restaurant review